Cabbage has long been part of Guyanese kitchen life as one of those dependable market vegetables that ordinary families cooked again and again in practical, flavourful ways.
Cabbage was one of my favourite comfort foods when I was a child. My eldest sister knew how much I loved this vegetable and at least once a month she would incorporate it into the family meals. I was spoilt, but then also, I was an avid eater who adored her cooking, so I’m quite sure I spoke to the chef-ego in her.
Every morning, I would sit patiently while she went about her morning chores, but the minute she grabbed up the string bags for marketing I would run off and find shoes so I could join her on her market trek.
At the market, she was a mistress of finding the best seasonal bargains. We didn’t eat mangoes, cherries, sapodillas, crabs etc. out of season, but we ate well when they were in season.
Cabbage though, that seemed to be perpetually in season, yet we only ate it a few ways…we ate it cooked with beef or chicken, in a curry or a tomatoey stew. It was not until I moved to Canada that I encountered cabbage rolls, which reminded me of cabbage and beef, and sauerkraut which reminded me of nothing I have ever tasted but I fell in love with a good jar of pickled cabbage like nobody’s business. I adore Kimchi too. Coleslaw done a hundred ways is my literal jam.
Cabbage soup, though, can stay in the confines of the most unimaginative minds, because that is one dish I can happily live without.
Did you know? The aroma of cooking cabbage can tell you a great deal about its freshness. A young, freshly picked cabbage gives off a sweeter aroma in the pot, while an older one tends to release a more pungent smell. My sister knew this well, which is why she always chose cabbages that had been picked that very morning.
This is her recipe, the simple, pure cooking of yore. The sizzle of onions, garlic and tomatoes, the sprinkling of fresh herbs, the umami of seasoned meat. The comfort of food grown a few miles away and cooked almost entirely with local products…except for the salt , chicken bouillon, and cooking oil which were imported.
I, on the other hand, only ever use extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), and Vancouver Island Sea salt. And if needed, I will use a pinch of Canadian vegetable bouillon.
Culturally, cabbage has long been part of Guyanese kitchen life as one of those dependable market vegetables that ordinary families cooked again and again in practical, flavourful ways. Guyana’s own agricultural guides show that cabbage has been grown locally for many years, with several cultivars adapted for farmers and kitchen gardens, which helps explain why it became such a familiar presence in everyday meals. The dish itself likely grew out of that same home-cooking tradition: seasoned meat stretched with a plentiful vegetable, cooked down with onion, garlic, tomato, thyme and pepper into something economical, nourishing and deliciously satisfying.
Nutritionally, it is a fine dish too. Cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable, valued for fibre, vitamin C and other protective plant compounds, while the chicken brings protein, making this one of those old-fashioned meals that is both hearty and genuinely good for you.
Tips & Substitutions: 2 pounds chicken, chopped, washed with lime and salt and water, drain. 1. Season the chicken with the green seasoning and salt and set aside to marinate. Be careful not to overcook the cabbage into limpness. It should soften, turn glossy and sweet, yet still hold a little body.
Boneless chicken thighs can be used if you want something quicker, though bone-in chicken gives the pot a depth of flavour. If wiri-wiri peppers are hard to find, a Thai chili or a little bit of scotch bonnet will do nicely, and if fresh tomatoes are not in their glory, a few extra spoonsful of canned chopped tomatoes can help along the sauce. Be careful not to overcook the cabbage into limpness. It should soften, turn glossy and sweet, yet still hold a little body. A good heavy pan and a tightly fitted lid make all the difference, allowing the cabbage to steam gently over the chicken and absorb all the savoury goodness beneath.
Ingredients
2 Tablespoons Green Seasoning (Recipe here) plus 1/2 tablespoon salt
1 medium head of cabbage, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons EVOO
2 fat cloves of garlic, smashed to smithereens
1 small onion, thinly sliced
3 wiri-wiri peppers or 1 Thai Chili, minced
2 large ripe tomatoes, chopped small and retain the juices
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 small thumb-size bit of bouillon
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leavesInstructions
2. In a heavy bottomed sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat and drop the smashed garlic in it to flavour the oil, when it is a caramel coloured, drop the sliced onions into the pan and let it sizzle and caramelise.
3. Now add the hot peppers.
4. Add the marinated chicken to this fragrant mixture, mix well to coat, and let it fry-down (until there are no liquids and the chicken is almost cooked through).
5. Now is the time to add chopped tomatoes, let that simmer and bubble for a few minutes, then add the tomato paste and combine everything to a rich redness.
6. Lower the heat to medium, pile the thinly sliced cabbage on top of the sauteed chicken, like you would pile a tagine. Sprinkle the thyme and bouillon over it. Cover the pan with a domed lid to keep the cabbage steaming away happily.
7. When the cabbage looks translucent (after about 15 minutes), toss the sauteed chicken and cabbage together, incorporate well to get all the yummy umami goodness mixed in with the steamed cabbage. Cover and cook for another 5 minutes.
Serve with steamed rice. This makes for a complete meal, with loads of protein and fibre…just what the doctor orderedNotes